I decided to try TurboTax 2020 this year after getting fed up with bugs in H&R Block’s software. It seems TurboTax’s quality isn’t great either. I kept getting unsuccessful import errors when trying to import H&R Block 2019’s PDF.
The trick, I discovered, is to prune down what H&R Block puts in the PDF:
Open H&R Block and pull down the File menu.
Click Print, and deselect everything except for Forms to Submit.
Print to PDF. The PDF that’s generated will import successfully into TurboTax.
I guess the TurboTax importer was getting confused by the cover pages and/or supporting forms/worksheets. You’d think Intuit would test this. (and perhaps revamp their importer or at least include a useful error message)
Other annoyances I’ve found with tax software this year:
I re-downloaded H&R Block 2019 from Amazon and tried to run it on my M1 Mac. It refused to open, even using Rosetta 2. No error messages, it just won’t open. Thankfully, I had an old Intel Mac I could use to open it and perform the above steps.
Today the news came out that the Brave browser team bought a search engine. This led me to find out about Presearch, a search engine that pays you in cryptocurrency, while keeping your searches private. Just do your normal searching in it (no excessive searching or bot searches), and you get paid. The catches seem to be:
You can only withdraw in 1000 PRE increments.
You can get up to 8 PRE tokens per day. Searching every day, that would mean 125 days (~4.1 months) until payout.
At first, you can only withdraw 50% of your tokens, but this percentage improves as your searches appear more legitimate. This is done to combat abuse of their system.
PRE is currently worth about 6 cents per token, so that’s $60 every 4-5 months. Not bad. (This assumes you search normally without trying to game the system.)
Search results so far are actually good. And on the rare occasion when they’re not, they offer one-click links to DuckDuckGo, Google, and many other search engines.
Presumably, Brave will be doing the same with their search engine, but since their engine isn’t released yet, I’ll stick with Presearch for now. Check it out and get a 25 PRE bonus (~$1.50, currently) for signing up through this link.
Update: The redemption requirements have changed so it basically takes almost 2 years to redeem $100. Not worth it, decided to switch to Microsoft Rewards via Bing instead, where at least you can redeem every month.
It’s difficult to compare prices between doctors. Insurance providers have estimator tools, but the prices they give are often for slightly different procedures than the one you’re looking for. Even if they do have your exact procedure/test listed, the price ranges they list are usually outdated and nowhere near accurate.
One of my colleagues at work had a method he used to get more accurate price estimates. I’ve slightly modified it to fit my needs, and am listing it here in case it helps someone else:
Call doctor and get diagnosis and/or procedure/CPT codes.
Call facilities, get routed to billing, and ask for estimates.
Call insurance and also ask for estimates.
Pick facility and schedule an appointment. This may involve calling the doctor back to get a referral or move a referral.
Once scheduled, call again and ask for an estimate (since facilities are sometimes better able to provide estimates once your visit is scheduled.)
This is a lot of work, but may save you hundreds or even thousands of dollars.
Even if you think you might not be eligible, apply for financial aid anyway. Especially if you have a family. You might be surprised that you qualify. And apply before you pay your bill. It’s much tougher to get retroactive financial aid for a bill you previously struggled to pay.
Ask what the uninsured cost is. It can be cheaper than what would normally billed to your insurance, but then it doesn’t count towards your deductible either.
If you spend a lot at Walmart, have an Apple Card, and are willing to deal with extra hassle at the register, you can get 3-4% back by using the Ibotta app with Apple Pay. It works like this:
At checkout, open the Ibotta app. Hit Walmart and then Pay with Ibotta. You will be asked to enter the total amount due at the register.
Type that amount into your phone and pay with Ibotta using Apple Pay. This buys you a gift card for that amount. A gift card barcode pops up that you can scan with the scanner.
You get 2% for using Apple Pay, and Ibotta gives you 1-2%, for a total of 3-4% cash back at Walmart.
If you’re not a Walmart shopper and Apple Card holder, Ibotta is probably not worth it. Unless you’re someone who frequently:
Buys mostly brand name items at the grocery store (instead of mainly private label brands)
Purchases speciality alcoholic beverages
Ibotta just takes too much time for too little money. As an example, after entering a couple of receipts per month for 1 year and 3 months, I earned a whole $20. (That’s with a $10 welcome bonus + a $5 referral bonus.)
Because I don’t shop at Walmart often and don’t yet have an Apple Card, I cancelled my Ibotta account immediately after cashing out.
I was curious which no-income-tax state was the cheapest to live in, with the best weather, along with easy access to Trader Joe’s and Costco. I picked somewhat arbitrary but mostly family-friendly cities in each state, and charted the differences:
Cost of Living (How much does $100 buy)
Pleasant Days per Year
Violent Crime (100 = worst, national average = 22.7)
Yes, just across border in Georgia
Yes in Orlando
Yes in Orlando
Result: Henderson, Nevada looks like a good balance between low cost of living, low crime, pleasant weather (though it does get fairly hot there in the summer!), and easy access to familiar grocery stores. Now if only more of my family lived near there.
After two years of inactivity, Alaska Air retains the right to close your account and delete your Mileage Plan miles. In the past, I avoided this by going to Alaska’s shopping portal and buying a $1 song from iTunes. But iTunes is no longer one of Alaska’s partners, so I found a new strategy:
From Alaska’s shopping portal, click Groupon.
Search for anything, then clear the search, and you’ll get a list of All Deals.
Sort by price, low-to-high.
You’ll now see a bunch of deals in your area for $1 and up. I chose a local restaurant for $19, since I want to help support good local restaurants during the pandemic. Bonus: Groupon works with Apple Pay.
Click one, buy it, and you’re done. Your mileage credit will post to Alaska’s portal within a week or so, and you’ll have gained another two years before you have to do it over again.
Another even easier option is donating a portion of your miles to charity, via Alaska’s site. (Minimum: 1000 miles per donation.)
You can see that Beckley, WV is a beautiful place to live (weather-wise) with a great bang for the buck, but the violent crime rate is more than double the national average of 22.1. Based on what people are saying over at city-data, there’s a lot of drug activity there. And Danville, IL is exponentially worse.
The Finance Buff has a good article on how to avoid double taxation when entering Employee Stock Purchase Plan (ESPP) sales in H&R Block’s tax software. You should verify this with your HR department, but in most cases, your ESPP discount is already contained in your W-2. If you don’t manually correct this when filing your taxes, you will be taxed twice on the discount.
The missing piece that took me some time to figure out washow to calculate my true cost basis, using Form 3922, provided to me in January by my stock transfer company.
What I ended up doing is using the data in Boxes 2, 4, and 6 from Form 3922 to create a spreadsheet:
I then multiplied the market price on the purchase date (Box 4) by the number of shares transferred (Box 6). This gives you the total value of the stock sold for each purchase date (last column).
In the example above, I sold a bunch of shares that were purchased on 7 different dates, so I had to sum up the value of all the stock I sold on the date I sold it. That gave me my true cost basis, and that’s the number I plugged into H&R Block’s tax software.
Repeat this for each sale you make in the tax year, and you’ll avoid being taxed twice.
It still doesn’t have searching in the iOS version, but GoodBudget is my favorite budgeting app. It’s a digital envelope system. The interface is simple:
My wife and I can easily use it. It syncs between devices quickly and reliably. Categories are easily customizable, and it’s generous with 10 envelopes for free. It’s built by a small team of developers who are slow to add features but steady in their work over the years.
It’s fast loading (under 2 seconds). Unlike Dave Ramsey’s EveryDollar budgeting app, it also works offline. This is great when you’re trying to see how much you have left to spend in the back of the supermarket aisle where there’s no mobile signal.
Until Apple creates something better built into the Wallet app, GoodBudget is recommended.