From experience, it takes 2.5 hours to recharge Sony wireless headphones (MDR-XB70BT) from empty to full. This is also stated in the manual. The Sonys give 9 hours of battery life for listening. At 3 hours per day of usage, that’s 3 days between charges.
It takes 1.25 hours to recharge the Apple AirPods battery case. They give 24 hours of battery life when new. At 3 hours of usage per day, that’s 8 days between charges of the battery case.
Like all battery-driven headphones, you need to charge more often as the battery ages. After ~1 year of usage, I’ve found I need to recharge the AirPods battery case every 4 days, instead of every 8.
As an aside, I got the AirPods with wireless charging case, and don’t really like the wireless aspect of it. It’s too hard to position the AirPods perfectly on most wireless chargers. Next time, I’ll get the non-wireless AirPods.
My colleagues and I had trouble AirDropping files from our Macs to our phones. Sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn’t.
I figured out that AirDrop would fail with the Cisco AnyConnect VPN client connected.
Specifically, when your Mac’s sharingd service tries to connect to https://yourphone.local:8770/Ask to ask for permission to accept a file, it times out via the VPN. This happens even if LocalLanAccess is allowed in your VPN settings.
The solution was simply to disconnect the VPN client whenever you need to AirDrop something.
I had a problem for months in Apple Mail (both on the Mac and the iPhone) where multiple folders would show up with an Unread mail count, even if all mail in that folder was already read. If you clicked one of the Unread folders, the Unread count would instantly go away. (But it would reappear when re-opening Mail.)
Here’s how I fixed it:
Open Mail on the Mac
Click on the Archive (or All Mail) folder
Select all mail, right-click on the selected mail, and hit Mark as Unread
Repeat step 3, but now hit Mark as Read
Now close and open Mail again and you will no longer see folders with Unread mail in them. If the problem continues to occur, you may need to repeat steps 2-4 on all of your mail folders.
I recently rented a 2020 Mitsubishi Outlander SEL and drove it for a week. It was in the “Intermediate SUV” car class. Here’s what I thought of it:
Very roomy – enough for 7 passengers + plenty of bags
Large infotainment screen
SEL model includes Apple CarPlay
Blind spot monitoring
Doors feel chintzy. Way worse than recent Kias (which are quite solid) or even older Ford econoboxes. It’s a bit weird closing the door of such a large vehicle and hearing a tinny sound.
No radar adaptive cruise control.
Hatch is really poorly designed. Three out of four times, it was impossible to open. It just kept beeping at us. No matter how many times you push the button on the key fob or the trunk lid, the trunk wouldn’t open by itself. So annoying. Eventually we found it was open much of the time, but wouldn’t auto-raise like it was designed to, so we had to manually lift it.
Dim rear camera view, especially at night. Turning the brightness up works for maps but has almost no effect on the rear camera. You can barely see out of it.
Engine sounds like it’s straining most of the time. Loud. Fuel economy only ~23MPG.
Overall, I’d still rent it again, as it was worth it for the amount of space and Apple CarPlay, but I’d try to find a better competitor (such as a Ford Edge) first. I definitely wouldn’t buy one, given all the trouble with the hatch.
I recently received an Eve Room HomeKit Air Quality monitor. But when I plugged it in, nothing happened. I let it charge overnight, and it remained stuck on the charging screen. I reset it with a paperclip multiple times. Tried multiple chargers. Tried a different micro-USB cable. All to no effect. The battery either seemed completely discharged upon arrival, or something was broken inside the unit.
That’s when I emailed Eve Support. They suggested resetting it again and waiting a few hours. I did, to no avail. After I sent them a photo of the non-working unit, they agreed to a quick, free replacement.
And the replacement worked great!
My experience with Volker and Sarah at Eve Support couldn’t have been better. Polite, prompt, professional, and a free replacement. I liked their service so much that I went out and bought a second Eve Room for the lower level of my house. I’m also planning to get one as a gift for a family member.
History graphs of your data (see below) – including exporting history to spreadsheets
HomeKit support – You can ask Siri to tell you the temperature/humidity/air quality in any given room
Automation – In the Home app, you can have an air purifier come on automatically when air quality drops
More automation – In the Eve app, you can add additional automations based on temperature and humidity. For example, when temp/humidity get above 80F (26.6C), turn on air conditioner.
What are some downsides?
Bluetooth-based, which means it takes slightly longer (~1 second) than WiFi-based HomeKit products to display status in the Home app.
If you want to access Eve from outside your house, you need a HomeKit hub, such as an Apple TV, HomePod, or iPad. (In my experience, the Apple TV is the most reliable of the three.)
Expensive – $70 more than the bigger AcuRite monitor (though it’s tough to find an air quality monitor with a display for less than $70).
Not magnetized like the AcuRite – so you can’t stick it to your refrigerator without adding a magnet.
Charging is easy. It takes less than 2 hours and only needs to be done once every couple months. You can also use it with the charger plugged in, though it’s possible this will reduce the battery lifespan a bit. With the AcuRite, you need to replace the 2x AAA batteries every other year. (Though my first AcuRite started reporting obviously incorrect temperatures after a few years – I just bought another one since it was so cheap.)
Are the air quality measurements any good? The only thing I have to compare it to are the measurements from my Withings scale downstairs. The Withings reacts pretty fast to cooking in the kitchen. The Eve Room seems to be a bit more … optimistic on air quality, even when the air seems a bit stale. (a quick blast of the air conditioner clears this up though) It doesn’t care much about soiled diapers, but it does react when people are in the room breathing out carbon dioxide for half an hour or so.
Overall, fun little gadget, and I’m looking forward to setting up automations with it!
I have a small Dell E310DW laser printer, which is a rebranded Brother L2340DW wireless printer. Bought it for $90 three years ago. Today, I discovered the printer’s internal status page. Here’s how to get to it:
With the printer on, go to http://dell5bbcd8.local./general/information.html?kind=item (this address may be slightly different depending on whether you have a Brother or Dell printer). Not sure if part of the address is randomized though. If it doesn’t work, try putting your printer’s IP address in your web browser’s location bar.
You’ll see a page that looks similar to the one below. You can go to the home page to see the amount of toner remaining.
After I bought this printer, I sold my old non-wireless HP LaserJet P1006 printer for $40 on Craigslist. Even though it needed toner, I still had 4 people competing to buy it.
A few more things I love about this Dell/Brother laser:
Fast duplex printing (prints on both sides of the page to save paper)
Works wirelessly with no software to install on Macs, iPads, and iPhones
You can continue printing even beyond the toner’s estimated print life by enabling “Continue Mode“. Use the printer controls on the printer itself, or log into the printer web management (described above), and set the replace toner option to enable this mode.
After 3 years, I’ve printed 265 pages. That’s 88 pages a year, or 7 pages a month. I have roughly 60% of my “starter toner” remaining. At this rate, I’ll be be able to use the original toner for at least another 3-4 years! This would be unheard of in the inkjet world.